Geylang's history is definitely a mixed bag. The area, along the east coast, was a military outpost for the British and a hotspot for local entrepreneurs to set up their workshops and stores. But since it was a first point of contact for many Asian and European foreigners (civilian and naval) arriving into Singapore, it also became a center for prostitution and sex-worker trafficking. Geylang grew to become a major red-light district. Even to this day, Geylang is known to have some of that going on, some of it regulated and some of it running illegally.
But Geylang in the daytime is something else completely. Walking around the side streets, Shan and I saw lots of active Buddhist community centers, temples and shrines. We checked out shops selling handmade bamboo birdcages and fruit stores with giant hanging pomelos. We enjoyed an outstanding bowl of Malay prawn noodle soup (one of the must-have dishes I had on my list of things to eat in Singapore). And once we got a certain distance into Geylang, we could smell our target...
D U R I A N!!!
The smell is unmistakeable, and extremely off-putting to many. The best I can describe it is that it's like gassy mango in dirty laundry. Shan says it smells like a diabetic foot wound. Subways stations, stores, hotels, and other establishments have clearly marked "No Durians Allowed" signs.
A durian can get as big as a rugby ball, and it's covered in spikes. When you chop it open, the flesh is big yellow seed pods, with a consistency somewhere between super-ripe mango and thick custard. Apparently, we bought a D24 variety/cultivar of durian. Shan says that the most popular cultivar is called Mountain Cat, but I think that was out of season.
Walking with the durian pack in a tote bag, we could smell the durian wafting up as we walked and as we ate our prawn noodles. Eventually, we sat down outside the metro rail station, and mentally prepared ourselves for this experience.
Shan: "Diabetic foot wound"
Me: "Hmm, not bad"
The best way I can describe the flavor is to think of over-ripe mango, dial down the sweetness and add more of a gassy almost-onion aroma. I would totally try it again, hopefully one that's in-season. Shan said F that... unless it's Mountain Cat, that would deserve another try. We then devoured a couple of mangosteens and then hopped a train to the Gardens By The Bay.
For the memories!
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