京都 (Kyoto), Part 2 - Kyo-kaiseki

In planning the trip, I set aside a special part of my budget for 1 outstanding, kick-ass meal in Japan. I had read about kyo-kaiseki, considered Japanese haute-cuisine that originated as part of a formal tea ceremony. It's a multi-course meal of elaborate small plates, made from seasonal ingredients.

The restaurant, Nanba, is in the popular dining/teahouse/geisha district of Gion. I honestly don't remember exactly how I found out about Nanba, but I do remember finding their website in English, their online reservation system... and their 1 Michelin star. I requested a seat at the counter, right by the chef and with a clear view of all the action. The hostess didn't speak much English and the chef didn't speak any, but they accomodate English speaking guests by bringing out a dictionary to explain what the dishes are made from. She also helped me pick a great, moderately-priced, locally-brewed sake.

Thus began the greatest culinary experience of my life. The freshness of the food, the techniques, the presentation, the flavors, all the fish and other ingredients I'd never even heard of before... I was in awe for 2 hrs straight.

Chef Nanba himself.

Crab, topped with seaweed and chrysanthemum

Sea bream in clear broth with carrot, baby daikon, and yuzu zest.

The fish was soft as butter and full of flavor. I learned that yuzu and root veggies are the big ingredients of fall/winter.

Sashimi plate: tuna, sea bream, squid, and one more fish I didn't get the name of. Real wasabi and chrysanthemum on the side, grated daikon on top.

Clockwise from top: salmon roe and chrysanthemum, soft roe, monkfish liver(?), and various grilled fish, including moroko.

The plating was beautiful, with Japanese maple leaves. I jokingly asked the chef if the leaves were edible as well. He liked that :)

Grilled managatsuo fish with some sudachi to squeeze on top.

My chopsticks beat my camera to this dish.

Chilled noodles and mushrooms in broth.

There was something on top with the consistency of melted mozzarella. I asked what it was and the chef said yama-imo (mountain potato, or maybe yam). But I'm not sure if it was a potato foam or the noodles were made of potato.

EDIT: I found out that the yama-imo is just the foam-like substance. It's mountain potato, grated and boiled.

Yama-imo, sweet shrimp balls, and spinach(?) topped with yuzu zest

Miso soup with chives(?) and conger eel with yuzu zest on rice.

Some of the best roasted eel I've ever had.

Yuzu sherbet and mousse with mixed seasonal fruits.

Matcha tea (thick green tea from a powder), and some kind of dessert with sweet red bean filling, inside of a soft, green outer paste.

It was kind of like mochi, but the outer layer had the consistency of mochi filling. The chef described it as "traditional Japanese cake." Whatever, it was gorgeous and tasty, especially with the tea

I was rather happy, to say the least.

I never splurged like that on a meal for myself before. But every course was so incredible, and the service was so nice, it was well worth it. I don't know how many times I told the chef "Sugoi!" (awesome) and "Oishii!" (delicious). With a teary eye, I left the restaurant, and took a long walk along the river through Gion before going back to my inn.