The food and sights in Taiwan were incredible (thanks to Jason), and Tokyo was absolutely fascinating (thanks to my CMU friend Naoki). But Kyoto was simply the best. I met some great people, visited amazing centuries-old temples and shrines, enjoyed foliage like I haven't seen since I left New York, and I had the fine dining experience of a lifetime.
Once I got settled in my ryokan (traditional bed & breakfast), I headed next door to an izakaya that I read about online, Beppin-ya. They specialize in flame-grilling some special free-range chicken from Kagoshima. I knew that they usually get no one but locals and most likely wouldn't speak any English, and I only know a handful of words/phrases in Japanese. But I was feeling adventurous and was packing a phrasebook. Oddly enough, the first challenge was figuring out that the front door is a slider.
Anyway, the staff gave me a loud welcome, and the hostess led me to a spot at the counter near a couple. The U-shaped counter is separated from a small open-fire grill by a wall of glass. I sat down as the cook, a guy about my age, had a wire-cage of chicken over the grill. He squirted on some oil and lit the place up like the freaking 4th of July. I knew I had to stay and eat.
The hostess said she doesn't speak English, and told me that there wasn't an English menu, nor one with more pictures. So I asked for a recommendation, she pointed out a mixed grill. With a netbook with a browser open to a translator page, she explained it's a mix of thigh, skin, and throat meat. I have to say, I never had throat before, but it was the most popular dish (aside from, I assume, the chicken breast sashimi), so I went for it. I had a front row seat, literally, for watching the cook make it.
With some sea salt and some sudachi zest, it was smoky and tasty, even the throat. I was really enjoying the atmosphere and the light show, so I ordered some more food. I tried to ask in Japanese for a recommendation for a small dish, that was met with a some confusion, so I asked for some gyoza and a lychee-sour cocktail.
It was brought out by the owner of the izakaya, Shingo, who wanted to greet me himself. He was very cool, and apparently follows American college football from time to time. I said I live in Austin, and he says "Ah, Longhorns?"
At that point, my neighbors (the couple) smiled at me and the woman said in a little Japan-glish that they were fascinated with my phrasebook and how well I use chopsticks. The 3 of us talked a little, I told them my itinerary, the guy offered some sightseeing recommendations with my map.
Afterward, I started talking with a couple of guys, about my age, who came in shortly after me. One of them, Taka, spoke a little English and pieced together my story for his friend Katsu. They were pretty surprised with my plan to do Kyoto and Tokyo solo, not to mention surprised to meet a random black guy in the most unlikely place, haha.
もしもし、タカさん！あなたたちに会えてとてもよかったです。連絡をとりましょう。たのしかった、ありがとう！
We took some pictures together with his phone, we exchanged emails, and he gave me the URL to his blog, telling me to check it the next day for the photo. I didn't see it up the next morning... but that's for another story.
I almost wanted to hang around for another hour or so, but it was getting late. And I wanted to check out Yasaka Shrine illuminated at night and get back to the ryokan at a reasonable time. Dinner at that bar pretty much assured me that Kyoto would be a breeze for exploring on my own :)
Awesome dude! I'm impressed at your ability to make friends in an exotic place. Great post.
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