京都 (Kyoto), Conclusion

Oh yeah, I never did finish the story from Part 1, about the izakaya and the photo I took with Taka and Katsu.

The next morning I checked Taka's blog, but didn't see my photo yet. That night, after dinner at Nanba, I wanted to stop by Beppin-ya for a drink, but the bar was full to the brim. The cook said something that I can only assume means "sorry, there aren't any seats." So I called it a night.

The next night (my last in Kyoto), I was on my way back to my inn and to get dinner at Beppin-ya, when I bumped into an American couple. We got to talking, I found out they're military and stationed elsewhere in Japan. I suggested continuing the conversation at the izakaya, but the guy says "I'm really in the mood for just some shitty American food, we're trying to find a TGI Friday's." I'm not kidding. Going to a TGIF totally went against my principles on this trip, but I didn't mind the company and easy conversation for little bit. I didn't eat, but I enjoyed a really good Suntory beer. (By the way, you know how TGIF in the US cut down on the absurd flair and silly crap on the walls? Well, Japan kept all that nonsense)

Anyway, it was actually a good thing I had that 1 hour detour, because once I left and went straight to the izakaya, something interesting happened. The staff was excited to see me come back, and set me up at the counter again, next to a random Japanese couple about my age. The girl gets my attention, hands me an iPhone with a photo on screen, and asks if that's me. Sure enough, that's the picture Taka took! Apparently Taka's blog is somewhat popular in town because of his men's clothing boutique. So we got to talking.

Eitaro and Shouko

My food came out, and so did the bar owner, Shingo. And he had a special gift for me, a fan and a glass of Yamazaki single malt whisky! If I understood correctly, this promo fan is in the style of the gift fans usually given to geisha and maiko for the new year, and he had one as a decoration. I felt so honored. We then talked about the sightseeing I did that day, and I showed Shingo some of the sketches I did in Nara with a calligraphy brush pen I bought. It turns out Shingo's really into calligraphy and had his own brush and fine paper there at the store. So he wrote for me the kanji for "gratitude" or "thanks".

"Yamazaki Kyoto Highball"

感謝, "kansha", and a cup of Yamazaki 12-yr single-malt on the rocks.

At the end of the night, when the rest of the customers started to clear out, Shingo introduced me to the rest of his staff, and we took a group photo. All I can say is that I saw some incredible sights around Kyoto, but the time I spent at Beppin-ya and the people I met there stand out the most for me.

Until next time, じゃまた

京都 (Kyoto), Part 1

Some of you may know that I recently went on the vacation that I've been dreaming of for a long time. I took my first trip to Asia! I started with 5 days in Taiwan, visiting my friend Jason from grad school. From Taiwan, I flew into Tokyo, got my Japan Rail Pass, and took an express bullet train Kyoto Station. I spent 3 nights and 2 days before taking another bullet train to Tokyo to spend 2 full days and finish off the trip.

The food and sights in Taiwan were incredible (thanks to Jason), and Tokyo was absolutely fascinating (thanks to my CMU friend Naoki). But Kyoto was simply the best. I met some great people, visited amazing centuries-old temples and shrines, enjoyed foliage like I haven't seen since I left New York, and I had the fine dining experience of a lifetime.

Once I got settled in my ryokan (traditional bed & breakfast), I headed next door to an izakaya that I read about online, Beppin-ya. They specialize in flame-grilling some special free-range chicken from Kagoshima. I knew that they usually get no one but locals and most likely wouldn't speak any English, and I only know a handful of words/phrases in Japanese. But I was feeling adventurous and was packing a phrasebook. Oddly enough, the first challenge was figuring out that the front door is a slider.

Anyway, the staff gave me a loud welcome, and the hostess led me to a spot at the counter near a couple. The U-shaped counter is separated from a small open-fire grill by a wall of glass. I sat down as the cook, a guy about my age, had a wire-cage of chicken over the grill. He squirted on some oil and lit the place up like the freaking 4th of July. I knew I had to stay and eat.

The hostess said she doesn't speak English, and told me that there wasn't an English menu, nor one with more pictures. So I asked for a recommendation, she pointed out a mixed grill. With a netbook with a browser open to a translator page, she explained it's a mix of thigh, skin, and throat meat. I have to say, I never had throat before, but it was the most popular dish (aside from, I assume, the chicken breast sashimi), so I went for it. I had a front row seat, literally, for watching the cook make it.

Cool, huh?

With some sea salt and some sudachi zest, it was smoky and tasty, even the throat. I was really enjoying the atmosphere and the light show, so I ordered some more food. I tried to ask in Japanese for a recommendation for a small dish, that was met with a some confusion, so I asked for some gyoza and a lychee-sour cocktail.

Perfection, and great presentation too

It was brought out by the owner of the izakaya, Shingo, who wanted to greet me himself. He was very cool, and apparently follows American college football from time to time. I said I live in Austin, and he says "Ah, Longhorns?"

Hook 'em, Shingo-san

At that point, my neighbors (the couple) smiled at me and the woman said in a little Japan-glish that they were fascinated with my phrasebook and how well I use chopsticks. The 3 of us talked a little, I told them my itinerary, the guy offered some sightseeing recommendations with my map.

Afterward, I started talking with a couple of guys, about my age, who came in shortly after me. One of them, Taka, spoke a little English and pieced together my story for his friend Katsu. They were pretty surprised with my plan to do Kyoto and Tokyo solo, not to mention surprised to meet a random black guy in the most unlikely place, haha.

Katsu and Taka. Cool guys with cool hats.

もしもし、タカさん！あなたたちに会えてとてもよかったです。連絡をとりましょう。たのしかった、ありがとう！

We took some pictures together with his phone, we exchanged emails, and he gave me the URL to his blog, telling me to check it the next day for the photo. I didn't see it up the next morning... but that's for another story.

I almost wanted to hang around for another hour or so, but it was getting late. And I wanted to check out Yasaka Shrine illuminated at night and get back to the ryokan at a reasonable time. Dinner at that bar pretty much assured me that Kyoto would be a breeze for exploring on my own :)